Pothos leaves turning yellow is most often caused by overwatering or poor drainage, but low fertility, too much direct sun and normal ageing can do it too. The pattern matters: one old leaf now and then is normal, while several yellow leaves at once, or yellow leaves with brown spots, is a sign to check the soil and roots.
Quick answer: Push a finger 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) into the soil. If it is still wet, overwatering is the likely cause: let it dry, empty any saucer and check the roots. If the soil is fine, look at light (direct sun can yellow leaves) and feeding (pale, slow growth can mean the plant needs fertilizer).
Is it normal for pothos leaves to turn yellow?
Sometimes, yes. NC State Extension notes that over time pothos leaves will yellow and fall off. If it is one older leaf near the base of a vine, and the rest of the plant looks healthy, it is simply ageing. Snip it off and carry on.
It is worth acting when you see several leaves yellowing at once, yellowing on new growth, yellow leaves with dark or brown spots, or a plant that also droops, smells musty or has soggy soil.
Yellow pothos leaves: causes at a glance
| Pattern | Most likely cause | Check first |
|---|---|---|
| One old leaf at a time | Normal ageing | Nothing; remove it |
| Several leaves yellow, soil wet | Overwatering or poor drainage | Is the soil wet 1–2 in down? Is the pot sitting in water? |
| Yellow leaves with brown or black spots or edges | Overwatering, root rot, or a leaf-spot disease | Look at the roots and the leaf spots |
| Yellow or pale leaves on the sunny side | Too much direct sun | Does sun hit the leaves for hours? |
| Overall pale, slow growth | Low fertility | When did you last feed it? |
| Yellowing plus crusty soil or burnt edges | Too much fertilizer (salt build-up) | White crust on soil or pot rim? |
Cause 1: overwatering and poor drainage
This is the most common cause. Clemson Cooperative Extension lists overwatering as a cause of yellow pothos leaves, and Iowa State Extension lists yellowing or browning leaves, wilting and leaf drop as symptoms of overwatering. Wet soil starves roots of air, and damaged roots cannot feed the leaves.
How to fix it
- Stop watering until the top 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) of soil are dry.
- Empty any saucer or decorative outer pot. Iowa State warns against saucers and outer pots that hold standing water.
- Make sure the pot has drainage holes. If it does not, move the plant into one that does.
- If the soil stays wet for many days or smells bad, slide the plant out and check the roots for rot (see cause 3).
Iowa State also lists pots that are too large and old, compacted soil as reasons soil stays too wet. If either applies, repot into a pot just slightly bigger than the root ball, using fresh, well-draining mix.
Cause 2: yellow leaves with brown spots
Yellowing combined with brown spots is a common search, and it usually means more than one thing is going on.
- Dark, wet-looking spots or blackened edges: NC State links overwatering to root rot and blackening of the leaf margins, and UConn notes that overwatered plants often show black edges along leaves and stems.
- Brown, watery spots that spread: the University of Maryland Extension describes bacterial leaf diseases as black to brown, often watery spots or lesions. Remove affected leaves, keep water off the foliage and improve air flow.
- Dry, crispy brown tips or edges: usually dry air, underwatering or intense light rather than disease. Clemson links leaf scorch and tip dieback to low humidity or intense light.
Cut off badly spotted leaves with clean scissors and throw them away rather than composting them. If new leaves keep spotting, our pests and diseases guides go deeper.
Cause 3: root rot
If yellowing comes with drooping while the soil is wet, check the roots. Iowa State explains that roots kept too wet for a long time begin to rot and die, so the plant can no longer move water to the leaves. Healthy roots look light-colored and firm; rotted roots look dark or black (UConn) and break apart easily.
Trim away rotted roots with clean scissors, repot into fresh, well-draining mix in a pot with drainage holes, and water only when the top of the soil dries. If most roots are gone, take healthy stem cuttings and start again.
Cause 4: too much direct sun
Pothos likes bright, indirect light. Penn State Extension states that direct sun leads to yellowing of leaves, and Clemson links intense light to leaf scorch. If the yellow leaves are on the side facing the window, move the plant back a few feet or filter the light with a sheer curtain. Our light guides explain which windows work best.
Cause 5: too little or too much fertilizer
Clemson lists low fertility as a cause of yellow pothos leaves and suggests a houseplant fertilizer every other month in spring and summer. UConn adds that pale leaves and slow growth indicate a need for more frequent feeding.
The opposite also happens: Iowa State notes that over-fertilizing causes yellowing, and the salt that builds up can damage roots, sometimes showing as a white crust on the soil or pot. If you see that, water the plant thoroughly a few times to flush the salts out, then feed less often.
What to do with yellow leaves
A yellow leaf will not turn green again. Once you have fixed the cause, trim yellow leaves off at the stem with clean scissors. The plant looks better and puts its energy into new growth. Watch the next few new leaves: if they come in healthy, the problem is solved.
Frequently asked questions
Why are my pothos leaves turning yellow with brown spots?
Most often overwatering, which damages roots and can blacken leaf edges. Brown, watery spots that spread can be a bacterial leaf disease. Check the soil moisture and roots first.
Should I cut yellow leaves off my pothos?
Yes. Yellow leaves do not recover, so trim them at the stem once you have found and fixed the cause.
Can underwatering cause yellow pothos leaves?
It can, but underwatering more often shows as drooping and dry, brown, crispy tips. Yellowing with wet soil is the more common pattern.
How long does it take a pothos to recover?
Existing yellow leaves will not recover, but healthy new leaves are the sign of success. How fast they appear depends on light and season; growth is slower in winter.
For the full care routine, see our complete pothos plant care guide, or browse more pothos leaf problem guides.
Sources
- How to Grow Pothos Indoors (HGIC 1568) - Clemson Cooperative Extension
- Epipremnum aureum - NC State Extension Plant Toolbox
- Diagnosing Houseplant Problems Related to Poor Culture - Iowa State University Extension
- Why Is My Houseplant Wilting? - Iowa State University Extension
- Ailing Houseplants - UConn Home & Garden Education Center
- Indoor Plant Diseases - University of Maryland Extension
- Pothos as a Houseplant - Penn State Extension
Written by the Trailing Leaf editorial team from the sources above. Last reviewed October 2026. General plant care information; plants vary with conditions.
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